Lift, Lock, Pull — 12-week training block

Normal week · 4 sessions

Pick a day

Session order

Fingers twice a week, never on back-to-back days. Pull twice — once heavy, once fast. Do the heavy finger work first in any session it appears in.

Sources and reasoning

Where this comes from

Two Lattice Training videos. "This Will Change Climbing Training Forever — Yves Arm-Lifting Method" supplies the arm lift in full: the 50/60/70/80% ramp, 10% steps, four reps at 80%, the 90–95% peaking pyramid, and the autoregulation rules. "The Only Training Video Climbers Need for Exercise Selection!" supplies the method behind the lockoff and pull work rather than a protocol.

How the lockoff work was derived

The second video's five steps, run on its own undercling-lockoff example: identify the movement, then the joints (elbow, shoulder), then the prime movers (biceps, lats), then exercises that load them — its own picks were the bicep curl and the low row — then the velocity, which for max strength is heavy and slow. Its sixth consideration, muscle length, is why the holds sit at fixed angles: "we get strong in the range we train… if we train partials we get stronger in the partial range of motion."

Why the pull block is periodised

"Gains in maximum strength will transfer to gains in velocity… you could start with maximum strength, still see gains in power, but then taper into a more high velocity focus and see even further gains in that power development."

Why the board is for duration, not max

Yves keeps the hangboard for longer isometric work and the lifting for max strength. On matching training to a project: "if it's a nine-move boulder… I need to hold for about 40 seconds, then I'll try to fit that into my training and that will determine my weight." That is where the 7 s / 3 s repeaters come from.

The buffer

"I usually stop after one or two reps, or if it's time, I'll stop a few seconds before complete failure."

Sets taken to failure may add no training stimulus while still costing recovery before the next session. This is why nothing in the program is written to failure.

What the videos do not cover

Rest intervals, weekly frequency, rest days before climbing, the hangboard loading scheme, the sling ladder, and the session split are all additions. They are built on the videos' principles — buffer, rep records over load records, autoregulation, specificity of range and duration — and on your numbers, but no part of them is prescribed in either video.

Your numbers

Loads are calculated from bodyweight, a single-hand finger max, and a + pull-up max. Change any of those and the percentages move.